Mechelen is a Dutch-speaking city and municipality in the province of Antwerp, Flanders, Belgium. The municipality comprises the city of Mechelen proper, some quarters at its outskirts, the hamlets of Nekkerspoel (adjacent) and Battel (a few kilometers away), as well as the villages of Walem, Heffen, Leest, Hombeek, and Muizen. The Dijle flows through the city, hence the term ‘Dijlestad’ (Dijle City).
Mechelen is a historically important city located on the river Dyle in the center of Flanders, one of the three regions in Belgium. It lies about halfway between Antwerp and Brussels and has approximately 75,000 inhabitants.
Mechelen lies on the major urban and industrial axis Brussels-Antwerp, about 25 km from each city. Besides at Mechelen’s southern industrial and northern office estates many inhabitants find employment at offices in or industry near the capital, or at industrial plants near Antwerp’s seaport.
Though now in the shadow of Brussels, Mechelen is a historically important city in its own right. From 1506 to 1530 it was the capital of the Netherlands under Margaret of Austria. In 1559 it became an archbishopric, a sign of great importance. It was famous for its wood carvings, some of which can still be seen in the churches of the city, and for lace and tapestry manufacture.
Today it is a vibrant town, mixing trendy and traditional. Its carillon school is world-renowned, training students from all over the world in the art of playing carillons, sets of 6 or 8 bells hung in church towers. Shops downtown are often housed in buildings with the old-style Flemish architecture, but offer edgy fashions sure to appeal to the younger generation.
Mechelen is developing into the center of non-profit or non-governmental organizations for Flanders. Some famous examples are Natuurpunt, AFS, and the Red Cross. This is mainly because it’s very easily reachable (by train or by highway) but not as expensive as Brussels.
Inhabitants are called “Maneblussers” (moon-firemen). The story goes that one day long time ago the moonlight was shining on the unfinished St.-Romboutstoren and that some people thought it was burning. The whole city was mobilized to extinguish the fire but there was no fire to extinguish.
Most cities in Flanders have a mock name for their inhabitants. Since 1687, for their heroic attempt to fight the fire high up in the Saint-Rumbold’s Tower, where the gothic windows had shown the flaring of only the moon between clouds, Mechlinians have been called Maneblussers (Moon Extinguishers).
Once in 25 years, the Cavalcade reminds of the arrival of the Holy Roman Emperor Maximilian of Austria, father of Margarete, and other major events of the city’s past; it is followed along the streets by the Ommegang. The latter had an extra edition in 2000 for the 500th anniversary of Charles Quint. This cortege shows the city’s six 15th–17th C Giants and other serious and humoresque typical huge puppets and carts, and is UNESCO Masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity since 2005. The city’s 17th century wooden mascot is since 1775 called Opsinjoorke, the doll – later its replica – gets tolled about on a sheet as part of the Ommegang. Its recent bronze statue stands in front of the Belfry.
The annual parade of carts decorated with flowers, comparable with Blankenberge where Mechlinian florists still prepare up to half of those, and – original and appropriate for the area – with vegetables, has been indefinitely cancelled since the beginning of the 21st century for lack of financing by the City. In spring, a legendary holy statue of Our Lady is the main feature in the Procession of Hanswijk.
Historically famous Mechlinian trades: laken (woollen cloth), tapestries, cordwain, Mechlin lace (precious bobbin lace, already from the early 18th century), wood carving and sculpturing, furniture.
The area around Mechelen is famous for the cultivation of vegetables, among which Belgian endive (witloof), asparagus and cauliflower. Originated in the city, the Mechelse Veilingen in neighbouring Sint-Katelijne-Waver is the largest co-operative vegetable auction in Europe.
One of the four breeds of the Belgian Sheepdog is the local Malinois. The Mechelse koekoek is a local poultry breed, fleshy chickens with black and white feathers which extend on the bird’s legs, with colours reminiscent of a cuckoo, hence the name. Mechelsen Bruynen was allegedly the emperor Charles V’s favourite beer. A version is still brewed in the city at Het Anker brewery.
St. Rumbold’s Cathedral (Sint-Romboutskathedraal) is the largest of the 8 churches in Mechelen, with a high tower (though not as high as originally planned – construction stopped early due to lack of money). Notable works of art include the carved wood pulpit from 1723, painted triptychs dating to the late 15th and early 16th centuries, and an image of “Our Lady of Miracles” which has been in the cathedral since the early 16th century.
The Museum of Toys (Speelgoedmuseum), The Market Square (Grote Markt) has the cathedral cutting across one end and the Town Hall at the opposite end, with restaurants and cafes lining the sides between the two. The main shopping streets are Bruul and IJzerenleen, both radiating out from the Market Square. Vrijbroek Park (Vrijbroekpark).
Refuge of the Abbey of Tongerlo. Historically the refuge for the abbey in times of attack, it is now the home of De Wit, royal manufacturers of tapestry. There are guided visits on Saturday mornings at 1030. Hof van Busleyden is an eclectic museum with items of local interest. Paintings, sculpture, tapestries, the town mascot, and the chains from the old jail – there’s a little of everything. Explanations are in Dutch only, but with free entry it’s still worth a visit.
Sint-Janskerk is one of the 8 historic churches in Mechelen, with a notable Reubens painting/triptych “Adoration of the Magi”. The painting of the crucifixion by Wauters is also very impressive. Open 1:30-5:30 PM except Mondays and during services. The Begijnhofkerk, another of the churches, is known for the two statues above the door, one of Saint Catherine and one of God the Father.
The Palace of Margaret of Austria is an unassuming set of buildings on Keizerstraat that was effectively the seat of government during Mechelen’s time as capital of the Netherlands. Today it houses government offices, but the interior courtyard is worth a brief visit to admire the tranquil and well-organized gardens. Clocks and watches museum (horlogeriemuseum) Privately run museum where the owners, both watchmakers, give you a very interesting personal tour. Do come an hour before closing time to be able to have the full tour and explanations.
The Sint-Romboutskathedraal (St. Rumbold’s Cathedral) with its dominating tower (UNESCO World Heritage ID 943-016); the Sint-Janskerk (Church of St. John the Evangelist) exhibits ‘The Adoration of the Magi’ and the Kerk van Onze-Lieve-Vrouw-over-de-Dijle (Church of Our Lady across the river Dijle) ‘The Miraculous Draught of Fishes’, paintings by Rubens; the domed baroque Basiliek van Onze-Lieve-Vrouw-van-Hanswijk (Basilica of Our Lady of Hanswyck) by native architect Lucas Faydherbe, of whom some sculptures can also be found in the cathedral – he was a pupil and leading assistant of Rubens; the baroque Begijnhofkerk (Church of the Beguines, dedicated to St. Alexis and St. Catherine); the former Jesuit church Sint-Pieter en Pauluskerk (Saints Peter and Paul).
The Brusselpoort, last remaining of the city’s twelve gates, 13th century; the Schepenhuis, oldest stone-built city hall in Flanders, historical seat of the ‘Grote Raad’ (Great Council or Supreme Court), 13th century; the gothic-renaissance Hof van Busleyden where Jeroen alias Hiëronymus van Busleyden received Erasmus, Thomas More, and the later Pope Adrian VI. These three recently restored buildings together now house the City Museum.
The Palace of Margaret of York when widowed of Charles the Bold, now the City Theatre; the oldest renaissance building north of the Alps, Palace of archduchess Margarete of Austria while as regent of the Netherlands still raising the later Charles Quint, then for centuries the Supreme though now a lower Court of Justice; in one of these palaces, Anne Boleyn was educated for some time as well; the Palace of the Archbishop of the Roman Catholic province Belgium, still in use for its original purpose by Cardinal Danneels. These palaces may not be open to the public in general but do offer a good external view.
The Lakenhal (hall for merchants of woollen cloth) and the 14th century Belfry (UNESCO World Heritage ID 943-015) beside it, form now the City Hall at the Grand Market square. The Klein Begijnhof and the Groot Begijnhof (UNESCO World Heritage ID 855-003) (Small and Large Béguinages). The Jewish Museum of Deportation and the Resistance. Technopolis, center for hands-on Science and Technology.
The Toy Museum at Nekkerspoel. The animal park Planckendael in Muizen. The Kruidtuin or “Botanique” inner city park with marble statue of the world famous 16th century herbalist Rembert Dodoens alias Dodonæus; the foresty Vrijbroek recreational park with around June its outstanding Rose Gardens and in summer its Dahlia Garden; the Tivoli Park with Children’s Farm.
Many interesting facades along an easy walk from AB-straat by Katelijnestraat towards the Grote Markt, just behind the Schepenhuis turn right along IJzerenleen and before the Grootbrug (bridge) again right to the Vismarkt, always maintain left along a few curves and across the Kraanbrug (bridge) on the Haverwerf, pass the renewed complex of the former Lamot brewery; from the Grootbrug have a look on the river but stay on this bank: turn right onto the Zoutwerf till De Zalm (The Salmon), originally House of the Fishermans’ Guild, tread back and turn left to the Korenmarkt where minor traces of an early cloth hall remain: a 12th-13th century wall and ditch held Mechelen on this side of the river.
Mechelen had some problems with some youth groups. There is no immediate threat if you stay in tourist areas, but certain neighborhoods are to be avoided at night. The city used to have one of the highest crime rates of Flanders. Since 2003 the city is reviving again. Nowadays, it is safe to walk through Mechelen. The city has improved much over the last years. Don’t worry, just enjoy.
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