Hostels Travel Guide

The old walled city, a World Heritage site, has been traditionally divided into four quarters, although the names used today the Armenian, Christian, Jewish, and Muslim Quarters were introduced in the early 19th century. The Old City was nominated for inclusion on the List of World Heritage Sites in danger by Jordan in 1982. In the course of its history, Jerusalem has been destroyed twice, besieged 23 times, attacked 52 times, and captured and recaptured 44 times.

The Old City is fairly diminutive in size compared to modern-day Jerusalem. Despite its small size, or perhaps because of it, the Old City is amazing. Much of the Old City is only accessible by walking because of very narrow streets and steps in the road. This is not a great inconvenience because the Old City is only about 1 kilometer across. The Old City is a maze of twisty alleyways and it’s difficult to keep your bearings even with a map. Then again, getting lost is half the fun—you can’t get too lost due to its size.

Christian Quarter: The Christian Quarter, the result of rapid expansion under Byzantine rule, is located in the northwest corner of the city and is home to a bewildering array of churches, patriarchates and hospices of the city’s many Christian denominations. The quarter is served by the Jaffa Gate and the New Gate.

Church of the Holy Sepulchre, (accessible from Christian Quarter Road or a small opening from Souk el-Dabbagha). 5 AM–9 PM daily in the summer, and 4 AM–7 PM in the winter. The Holy Sepulchre is a large building spanning several areas in which Christ is believed to have been crucified and died, buried, and then rose from the dead on the third day.

Eastern Orthodox Christians, Roman Catholics, and Oriental Orthodox Christians are each alotted separate areas in the church dating largely to the time of Saladin. The Roman Catholics received their parts due almost purely to the Crusaders and, as all Roman Catholic shrines in the Holy Land, it is under the custodianship of the Terra Sancta (i.e. Franciscans). Parts of the Holy Sepulchre are controlled by several different branches of the Christian Church, who have historically been somewhat at odds with each other. It is important to note that the “church” is not one church in the sense of a building with an altar and podium near the front, but rather a “warehouse” of chuches even for each denomenation present, each has several altars and chapels.

The Orthodox Church makes up the largest of the churches there and is situated in the center directly to the east and infront of the Sepulcher as well as at Golgatha. The Armenians have several smaller altars and chapels throughout the ediface as well as a fairly large church called “Saint Helen’s” but often refered to as “Saint Gregory (the Illuminator of Armenia).” The Roman Catholics who have two chapels, the Ethiopians one in addition to a monastery on the roof, the Coptics have a small altar behind the Sepulchre itself, and there is a small, yet beautiful Syriac chapel up some stairs near the Coptic one though it is usually closed. There are even what are known as “ecumenical altars” set up on the sides in various areas which are apparantly almost purely decoration and are rarely if ever used.

There are many pathways and exploring here makes for a few hours of fun for those who love religious art and architecture. The best time to come is early in the morning and make your way out by 11AM. Even after sundown it is incredibly crowded. Be warned though, if you are wearing shorts, you might be barred access to the building itself but if not, then certainly to individual churches and without a doubt to the sepulchre.

Women should have their shoulder’s covered, no cleavage, and dresses should go below the knee. Do not wear anything which might be considered even the slightest risque. If you do not oblige, they will turn you back. *Lutheran Church of the Redeemer, Muristan Rd. 9 AM–1 PM and 1:30 PM–5 PM M–Sa. This church was built by Kaiser Wilhelm II and completed in 1898. The church is most admired by tourists for its bell tower. At the top of its 177 steps, visitors are rewarded with some great views over the Old City. NIS 3 for adults and NIS 2 for students (for bell tower only).  edit NIS 3 for adults and NIS 2 for students (for bell tower only).

Christian Quarter Road. Along with David Street, is the quarter’s main shopping thoroughfare. As with most shopping areas in the Christian Quarter, it specializes in religious items as well as handicrafts.

Muristan. Just south of the Church of the Holy Sepulcre, this area was once a hospice for pilgrims from Latin-speaking countries. Today it serves as a quiet area of outdoor cafes and small shops centered around an atmospheric central fountain. 

Church of St John the Baptist. Closed to the public. Adorned by a silvery dome, this church is visible from the Muristan even though the entrance is fairly difficult to locate. Founded in the 5th century, the church is significant as one of the most ancient churches in Jerusalem. The church was used as a hospice during the Siege of Jerusalem in 1099.

A Walk on the Roofs. It is possible to walk above the central souk along the rooftops of the city. Visitors can climb up to the rooftops via a small staircase at the corner of St Mark’s Road and Khabad Street.

A second set of stairs leads up from Muristan Road and visitors can exit into the courtyard of Khan el-Sultan, which allows exit onto Chain Street. The view from the rooftops offers delightful views of the bustling streets below, as well as unusual views of the Church of the Holy Sepulcre and the Dome of the Rock.

Muslim Quarter: The Muslim Quarter is the largest and most densely populated quarter of the Old City. The quarter has changed hands many times from the 12th through 15th centuries, resulting in decay since the 16th century. It is one of the most fascinating and least explored parts of Jerusalem.

Noble Sanctuary. 8 AM–2 PM (Ramadan: 7:30 AM–10 AM) Saturday–Thursday, but closed for prayers around noon. The key attraction of the Muslim Quarter, the Noble Sanctuary, also known in Hebrew as Har Ha-Bayit and in Arabic as Haram al-Sharif, is a vast rectangular esplanade in the south-eastern part of the city.

Traditionally the site of Solomon’s Temple, it later housed the Second Temple which was enlarged by Herod the Great and was destroyed by the Romans in AD 70. Hence, this plot is also commonly known to Jews and Christians as the Temple Mount.

The site is extremely controversial and access is strictly regulated. Non-Muslims are not allowed to enter the Sanctuary on Fridays and during prayer hours and may well be shut off entirely depending on the political situation of the day; even so, it is well worth making an effort to get in. The only non-Muslim entrance to the Sanctuary is through a wooden bridge leading up to the (ironically named) Moor’s Gate on the far south-eastern corner of the Western Wall Plaza. Entry to the Sanctuary itself is free. Presently, entry to the Dome of the Rock and the al-Aqsa Mosque are prohibited.

Dome of the Rock. Known in Hebrew as Kipat Ha-Sela and in Arabic as Qubbat as-Sakhrah, the Dome of the Rock is one of the first and most familiar achievements of Islamic architecture, the Dome of the Rock marks the spot from where most Muslims believe the Prophet Muhammad ascended to heaven on the back of his fabulous horse, before returning to earth to record his vision.

This association has made the building (together with the neighbouring al-Aqsa Mosque) the third-holiest site in Islam after Mecca and Medina. Built 687-691 by the ninth Omayyad caliph, Abd al-Malik, the Dome is probably the most spectacular building in the Old City, topped with a dazzling golden dome visible from afar, the interior layered with glittering ceramics, mosaics and Arabic calligraphy.

Despite common conceptions, the Dome is not a mosque, but a shrine which protects beneath its high ceiling, a large piece of Rock sacred to Muslims, Jews and Christians. The Rock is variously believed to be where Abraham was asked to sacrifice his son, Isaac, where Mohammad left the Earth on his Night Journey (a small indentation was reportedly left by his foot), as well as the site of the Holy of Holies of Herod’s Temple.

Al-Aqsa Mosque. Construction of the mosque began less than 20 years after the completion of the Dome of the Rock. Al-Aqsa has undergone many changes since its original construction. When the Crusaders captured Jerusalem in the 11th century, al-Aqsa became the headquarters of the Templars. The mosque’s design pales in comparison to the Dome of the Rock and is off-limits to non-Muslim visitors.

Museum of Islamic Art. Housed in the Crusader-era refectory of the Knights Templar, this sparsely-filled museum contains a few poorly labeled Islamic architectural remnants. An admission is required, but it is recommended that guests interested in Islamic art visit the LA Mayer Museum in the new city.

St. Anne’s Church. 8 AM–noon and 2–6 PM (winter: 4 PM) Monday–Saturday. This Crusader-era church was built between 1131 and 1138 to replace a Byzantine church. It is traditionally believed to be the spot where Anne and Joachim, the parents of the Virgin Mary, lived. In 1192, Saladin turned the church into a Muslim theological school.

Later the church fell into ruins until it was donated to France by the Ottomans in 1856. Outside the church are the extensive remains of curative baths as well as the ruins of a Roman temple dedicated to the god of medicine. It is widely believed that this site is the Pool of Bethesda where, according to the Gospel of John (5:1-15), Christ cured a paralysed man. 7 NIS for adults and 5 NIS for students and children.

Monastery of the Flagellation. 7 AM–6 PM (October through March: 5 PM) daily. Owned by the Franciscans, this site is traditionally held to be where Christ was flogged by Roman soldiers prior to his crucifixion (Matthew 27:27-30; Mark 15:16-19). Opposite the courtyard is the Chapel of the Condemnation, built on the site popularly identified with the trial of Christ before Pontius Pilate. Admission is free.

Ecce Homo Arch. 8:30 AM–12:30 PM and 2–5 PM Monday through Saturday. This arch, which spans the Via Dolorosa, was built by the Romans in AD 70 to support a ramp for the attack on the Antonia Fortress. The arch was reconstructed as a monument to victory when the Romans rebuilt Jerusalem in AD 135. Incorporated into the structure of the neighboring Convent of the Sisters of Zion, Christian tradition states that this is the place where Pilate presented Christ to the crowd and spoke the words, “Ecce homo” (Latin for “Behold the man”).

Jewish Quarter: The Jewish Quarter feels distinctly different from the rest of the Old City. Razed by the Jordanians after the partition of the former British Mandate of Palestine in 1948, most buildings in it have been rebuilt from scratch since Israel assumed control of the Old City in 1967.

Despite strict laws mandating the use of Jerusalem sandstone in all facades in order to maintain uniformity, the buildings look and feel new. In a somewhat tit-for-tat move, the current wide plaza in front of the Western Wall was created by bulldozing a neighborhood called the Moroccan Quarter.

The Western Wall open 24/7 and 365 days a year. Known in Hebrew as Ha-Kotel Ha-Ma’aravi, the Western Wall, which dates back over 2,000 years and marks the western edge of the Temple Mount, is a surviving remnant of the Temple Mount. As part of the retaining wall of the Temple Mount, it was built by Herod the Great during his expansion of the Temple in 20 BC. The wall became the Jews’ chief place of pilgrimage during the Ottoman Period where they lamented the destruction of the temple by the hands of the Romans in AD 70. For this reason it has also become known as the “Wailing Wall”.

As some halakhic authorities consider Jews to be forbidden from the Temple Mount, this is the only part of the structure those authorities say they are allowed to approach. (Note: Other halakhic authorities disagree, and there is usually no government prohibition against Jews ascending the Temple Mount, so long as those Jews don’t actually pray up on top of the mountain.)

The plaza in front of the Wall is divided by a fence, with a large area for men on the left and a smaller area for women on the right. Anyone is allowed to approach the wall as long as their heads are covered, (for men complimentary kippahs are provided upon entry), behave with decorum, and dress appropriately (no shorts and shoulders and midriffs must be covered, shawls are available to borrow on the women’s side). (Controversy has occasionally erupted when Reform Jews conducted their services at the Wall, as the Reformim prefer the women and the men praying together.)

The wall acts as an outdoor synagogue with written prayers inserted into the crevices between the large stones. Photography is not allowed on the Sabbath. Monday and Thursday mornings many bar mitzvahs are held, drawing large crowds of families and guests. Friday night at sundown there is the welcoming of the Sabbath (kabbalat Shabbat) which includes prayers, singing and dancing.

Western Wall Tunnel Tour. This is a tour of the underground parts of the Western Wall, including the evolution of the Temple Mount from the First Temple period to today. A wonderful tour for those interested in the archeology and history of the Temple Mount. The tour must be booked in advance but is well worth the advanced preparation. *Saint Mary’s Hospice. The ruins of a 12th century German Crusader Hospice within view of the Temple Mount.

Worth a short visit. A Jewish art gallary/shop is to the left of the door to the hospice’s church (it’s pretty obvious which of the buildings is the church). *The Cardo. Once running nearly the entire length of the Old City from north to south, the Cardo is an excavated and partially reconstructed section of the Jerusalem’s main thoroughfare in the Byzantine era. Visitors can get a good idea of how the whole once looked by descending to the 200 m (650 ft) section alongside the Jewish Quarter. The central roadway was 12.5 m (41 ft) wide and lined with shops. The pillars from that time still stand. Today in part, the Cardo contains an exclusive, covered shopping arcade.

Hurva Square. In a maze of narrow and winding streets, Hurva Square is the heart and social center of the Jewish Quarter. Its open areas offer cafes, souvenir shops, and snack bars with outdoor seating. On the west side of the square is the site of the Huvra Synogogue (Hurva means “ruins”).

Burnt down by its creditors in the 18th century, the synagogue was rebuilt in 1864 only to be destroyed during the fighting that took place in 1948 between the Arab and Jewish armies. After the Israeli assumption of control in 1967, a lone arch was reconstructed from the remaining shell, making it a popular photographic attraction. As of 2006, however, the arch has been removed and construction has begun on rebuilding the synagogue which is scheduled for completion in mid 2008.

The Broad Wall. Following the 1967 Israeli victory, a vast reconstruction program in the Jewish Quarter resulted in many important archaeological finds. One of the most significant was the unearthing of the foundations of a massive wall. These fortifications, measuring 7 m (22 ft) thick and 65 m (215 ft) long, are possibly part of the fortifications built by King Hezekiah in the 8th century BC.

Wohl Archaeological Museum. 9 AM–4:30 PM Sunday through Thursday. Lying 3 to 7 m (10 to 22 ft) below street level. This Museum offers a vivid excavation of daily life during the Herodian era, 2,000 years ago before the Romans rampaged and burned the wealthy Upper City in AD 70. Photography inside the museum is not allowed. Admission is 25 shekels for students and 35 for non-student adults and also covers the entrance fee to the ”’Burnt House”’, another building from the same era.

Ophel Archaeological Park. 8 AM–7 PM Sunday through Thursday and 8 AM–2 PM on Friday. This area on the southern side of the Haram esh-Sharif (Temple Mount) was been rebuilt many times over the centuries. Remains of Herodian (34–4 BC), Byzantine (AD 395–661) and Omayyad (AD 661–750) can be found on the grounds. Entrance fee is 25 shekels for adults and 15 for students. Audio guides are available but for 6 shekels but the map given at the front desk does not follow the audio guide’s number arrangement towards the end of the tour. Audio guide is recommended though. There is an admission fee.

Temple Institue,. 9AM-5PM Sunday-Thursday; 9AM-2PM Friday; Closed Saturday.. A fairly interesting place which has reconstructed most of the more obvious ritual tools to be used in the Temple services in the hopes of one day restoring the Temple itself. The front of the store is a book store while the back is a four room museum with one room set aside as a theater to show a 15 minute movie. Dress appropriately when going here. Long pants and sleeves for men, and modest wear for women. 20 shekels.

Armenian Quarter: The Armenian Quarter is the smallest and quietest of the four. The quarter runs itself as a city within a city (within a city…), shutting all gates when night falls.

Citadel. 8 AM–4 PM Sunday through Thursday and 8 AM–2 PM on Fridays, Saturdays and holidays. Now occupied by the Tower of David Museum of the History of Jerusalem, the Citadel is an imposing fortress inside the city wall beside the Jaffa Gate. Utilized and expanded throughout the centuries as a means of protection, excavations have revealed remains dating back to the 2nd century BC and indicate that there was a fortress here in Herodian times.

The museum provides visitors with 3 routes highlighting different aspects of the Citadel, namely: Exhibit, Panorama and Excavation. The routes are advisory only and provided for visitors’ convenience. An 1873 model of Jerusalem is on display in an underground cistern near the exit. 30 NIS for adults, 20 NIS for students and seniors, and 15 NIS for children.

St. James Cathedral. 6–7:30 AM and 3–3:30 PM daily. This Armenian cathedral is one of the most beautiful of all the sacred buildings in Jerusalem. It was constructed in the 11th and 12th centuries over the traditional tomb of St James the Apostle. Attending an Armenian Orthodox vespers service is a treat, even for non-believers. Vespers is held each evening (except Sunday) at 3:00 and lasts until 3:30. It is chanted by the seminarians of the Armenian Orthodox seminary across the street from the Cathedral. The chanting is very moving and has a bitter-sweet tone to it which is unforgettably beautiful.

Each afternoon the service is signaled by a priest striking wooden bars hanging from the vaulted porch. The interior is dimly lit by hundreds of oil lamps hung from the ceiling. (Make sure to find out if their is an Armenian holy day where all of the lamps will be lit up during your visit.) Rather than seats, the floors are thickly laid with Oriental rugs. The cathedral contains a chapel that supposedly holds the head of St James.

Saint Mark’s Syriac Church and Monastery. The monastery is open all day, simply ring at the gate. According to tradition, this church was built on the site of the house of Mary, mother of St Mark. Every weekday the three resident monks hold the 25 minute vespers service at 4PM for the small community of Syriac believers as well as visitors. Female visitors are not required to cover their hair during services.

Church of the Dormition. 9 AM–noon and 12:30 PM–6 PM Monday through Thursday; 9 AM–noon and 2–6 PM on Friday; 10:30 AM–6 PM on Sunday. Adorned by a conical dome and a tall bell tower, this Mount Zion church is the traditional site of the Virgin Mary’s death. Several churches have been built on the site. The present-day structure was built in the early 20th century for the visit of Kaiser Wilhelm II. The main part of the church contains a mosaic floor featuring the signs of the zodiac and the names of various saints and prophets. A statue of the Virgin Mary rests in the crypt surrounded by images of various women listed in the Old Testament.

King David’s Tomb. Summer hours are 8 AM–8PM Saturday through Thursday and 8AM–2PM on Fridays. Winter hours are 8 AM–sunset Sunday through Thursday and 8 AM–1 PM on Friday. Adjoining the Church of the Dormition and located on the lower floor of the Crusader building is a small chamber venerated as King David’s Tomb. The chamber—divided for separate viewing by men and women—contains a sarcophagus covered by a drape. Between the periods of 1948 and 1967, when the Old City was under Jordanian control and there was no access to the Western Wall, Jews would come here to pray. Today the entrance hall is still used as a synagogue. Admission is free.

Chamber of the Holocaust, 8 AM–5 PM, Sunday–Thursday, and 8 AM–1 PM on Fridays. Located directly opposite the Tomb of David on Mount Zion, this small museum is maintained by the Diaspora Yeshiva. The collection includes Holocaust artifacts, artwork inspired by the Holocaust, an exhibit of anti-Semitic publications throughout history, and memorials to individuals and communities that perished. NIS 12.

City of David. 9 AM–5 PM, Sunday–Thursday, and 9 AM–1 PM on Fridays. These ruins are the oldest part of Jerusalem with remains of buildings up to the city’s capture by the Babylonians in 586 BC. The ruins include 13th century BC walls, as well as fortifications and fragments of a palace attributed to David, the second king of Israel. The site is located south of the Temple Mount. Exit the Old City through Dung Gate (by the Kotel), turn left, and then take the first street on your right. A sign and an Israeli flag mark the entrance to the City of David. A small section of the excavations is open to the public, showing the house of Ahiel and the infamous toilet seat. (NB: Women should not go here alone.) Admission is free.

Warren’s Shaft. 9 AM–5 PM Sunday through Thursday and 9 AM–1 PM on Fridays. This tunnel is located about 100 m (330 ft) from the City of David excavations. Named after Charles Warren, its 19th-century discoverer, the sloping tunnel leads to a pool fed by the Gihon Spring. The system was built by the Jebusites to ensure a water supply during sieges. In the 10th century BC a tunnel was dug to take water from the Gihon Spring to the fields of the kidron valley. King Hezekiah had a new tunnel built to bring the spring water right into the city. Hezekiah’s Tunnel ran 533 m (1,750 ft) from the spring to the Pool of Siloam in the south end of the city. Visitors can wade through the tunnel in thigh-deep water. It takes about half an hour to pass through, and the ceiling is high in most places. It’s a good idea to take a flashlight. Before entering the tunnel, you can also visit the various tombs you will see in the valley. (NB: Women should not go here alone.) There is an admission fee.
 
St Peter in Gallicantu. 8:30 AM–5 PM Monday through Saturday. Located to the east of Mount Zion and overlooking the Kidron Valley, this church commemorates the traditional site of St Peter’s denial of Christ. In the crypt below the church are ancient caves, purported to be the place where Christ spent the night at the hand of Caiphas before being presented to Pontius Pilate. A large wooden model of an 18th century Old City is on display in the courtyard, although it pales in comparison to the more elaborate model on display at the Citadel (see Armenian Quarter). 7 NIS for adults and 5 NIS for students. Children under 13 are free. Parking is available at a charge of 10 NIS.

Schindler’s Tomb, A phone number has been hastily painted on the upper gate and can be called if desiring entrance. Hours are not set and more often than not, the gate to the cemetery is closed and locked. Down the hill from the Zion Gate is a small Christian cemetery. It is here that the grave of Czech-born German Oskar Schindler is located. Schindler, an industrialist during World War II, went out of his way to hire Jews as laborers in his factory. By doing so, he saved 1,200 people from the Nazi death camps. The story was memorialized in Stephen Spielberg’s Academy Award-winning movie, Schindler’s List.

Rockefeller Archaeological Museum. 10 AM–3 PM Sunday through Thursday and 10 AM–2 PM on Saturday. Located in East Jerusalem just outside the north-eastern corner of the Old City walls, the Rockefeller Museum was made possible by a substantial contribution by American oil tycoon John D. Rockefeller. The museum houses an impressive collection of antiquities, including a number of the Dead Sea Scrolls. There is an admission fee.
 
Garden Tomb. 8:30 AM–noon and 2–5:30 PM Monday through Saturday. Disputed to be an alternative to the Church of the Holy Sepulcre as the location of the death, burial and resurrection of Christ, the Garden Tomb is located a block north of the Damascus Gate. British general, Charles Gordon, popularized the view that the skull shaped hill just north of the city was the Golgotha referred to in the New Testament. Excavations have revealed an ancient tomb along with ruins of a cistern system and winepress—evidences that the site was once the location of a garden. Regardless of its authenticity, the lovely garden is worth a visit. Admission is free; donations are accepted.